JAPAN PHOTOS by Philbert Ono

Kurotani is the name of the village (now part of Ayabe city) where Kurotani washi papermaking started 800 years ago. Visited Kurotani Washi-no-Sato Japanese papermaking village and also tried making washi postcards at Kurotani Washi Kougei No Sato (Kurotani Washi Craft Village 黒谷和紙 工芸の里).

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Stayed at a farmhouse lodge (農家民宿) in Ayabe. Ayabe has a good number of farmers who have moved here from the city for one reason or another. Some of them run lodges and they welcome foreigners as well.

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The symbol of Fukuchiyama, Fukuchiyama Castle is a prominent edifice mainly built by Akechi Mitsuhide in 1579. The main castle tower was reconstructed in 1986 serving as a local history and folk museum. The top floor has great views of the city. 20-min. walk from JR Fukuchiyama Station. Open 9 am–5 pm, closed Tue. and Dec. 28th–31st, Jan. 4th–6th. Map: https://goo.gl/maps/8ZY7HHrDvoC2

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Museum explaining and exhibiting oni (demon, ogre) artwork and local oni legends of the Oeyama Mountains. Masks, statues, kawara roof tile ornaments, and paintings of oni from all over Japan and some from overseas. All donated to the museum. The museum is at the foot of the Oeyama Mountains (大江山).
The Oeyama mountains are known for famous oni legends. That's why this museum was built here in 1993 on the former site of a copper mine. The town wanted to promote itself as an oni town.

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On the east coast of Tango Peninsula in northern Kyoto Prefecture is Ine, a picturesque fishing village right on the water's edge. Unique for the built-in funaya "boat garages" (舟屋) where waterfront homes keep a boat next to the water. This village is designated as an Important Traditional Townscape Preservation District of Japan (重要伝統的建造物 群保存地区) and Japan's first fishing village to be so designated.

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Scenic gorge during a train ride from Arashiyama to Kameoka.

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Kameyama Castle is now headquarters to a religion called Omoto-kyo which acquired the castle property in 1919. Only stone walls and moats remain.

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Other sights in Kameoka, Kyoto Prefecture.

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Kamikoma is a neighborhood of about 40 Japanese tea wholesalers. There is some traditional buildings, and only one or two buildings where the public can enter.

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Built in the Nara Period, Kaijusenji is a Chisan-ha Shingon Buddhist temple. It worships an eleven-face Kannon statue. Its five-story pagoda is a National Treasure.

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Tango Peninsula in northern Kyoto Prefecture is scenic along the coast with a number of natural features and formations like Byobu Iwa Rock and Tateiwa Rock. Much of the coast is part of the San'in Kaigan Geopark (山陰海岸ジオパーク) that extends from the western half (Kyotango city) of Tango Peninsula to Tottori Prefecture. San'in Kaigan Geopark is also a UNESCO Global Geopark.

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Mention "Tango" to the average Japanese, and they most likely will answer "chirimen?" Scenic Tango Peninsula is synonymous with chirimen silk fabrics made here since 300 years ago.
"Chirimen" (縮緬) literally means "shrunken or crimped fabric." In the West, we call it "crepe fabric." So it has a wrinkly or bumpy surface. We visited a few chirimen factories in Tango and talked to a few of the top people in the industry. We were very impressed by the extremely high quality and their use around the world by major fashion brands.

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Established in 1811, Kotohira Jinja Shrine (nicknamed Konpira-san 金刀比羅神社) in Kyotango, Kyoto mainly worships Konpira (aka Kompira), the god who protects sailors, fishermen, ocean transport, navy personnel, and other seafaring people. People also pray here for business prosperity, family safety, scholastic excellence, safe childbirth, recovery from illness, and more. There are at least 30 Kotohira/Konpira Shinto shrines in Japan and the headquarters shrine is Kotohira-gu Shrine in Kotohira, Kagawa Prefecture in Shikoku.

This shrine in Mineyama, Kyotango greatly benefited from the patronage of rich, local Tango chirimen makers and it is unique for its koma-neko cat guardians.

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Kyoto's most famous geisha dance is held during the entire month of April at the Kobu Kaburenjo Theater in the Gion district. Since 1873, the show has delighted generations of Japanese and foreigners. Photography is not allowed. For more info, see miyako-odori.jp in English or call 075-541-3391.

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The Kamogawa Odori dance is performed during the month of May by geisha and geiko in the Pontocho district which straddles the Kamogawa River.

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One of Kyoto's Big Three Festivals held on May 15. The Aoi Matsuri's colorful procession of over 500 people in Heian-Period costumes start off at the Kyoto Gosho Imperial Palace and head for the Shimogamo and Kamigamo Shrines. These photos were taken in 2005. Also see the video at YouTube.

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One of Kyoto's Big Three Festivals and perhaps Japan's grandest costume parade, the Kyoto Jidai Matsuri is a procession of over 2,000 people dressed in wardrobe reflecting Kyoto's historical periods from 794 to 1868 during which Kyoto was Japan's capital. Held annually on Oct. 22 by Heian Jingu Shrine. The festival commemorates the day when Japan's capital was moved to Kyoto in 794. These photos were taken on Oct. 22, 2009.

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On July 16, the night before the Gion Matsuri Yamaboko Junko parade of floats, the Yoiyama display of floats lit up at night attract huge crowds in central Kyoto. You can also enter some of the grand floats. And a special treat is that private residences in the old kimono merchant district open up their entryways to show folding screens, kimono, and other treasures.

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Kyoto's second Big Three Festival and one of Japan's Big Three Festivals. This Gion Matsuri is also Japan's grandest festival of floats. Held annually in July, the festival's climax is on the 17th when giant, wooden-wheeled floats are pulled through the streets for the Saki Matsuri Yama-hoko Procession. Also see the video at YouTube.

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On July 24, a week after Gion Matsuri's main yama-hoko procession on the 17th, another grand float procession is held with 10 yama-hoko floats. The parade route goes in the reverse direction of the 17th. Also see the video at YouTube.

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Kyoto has many notable temples and shrines including Kiyomizu-dera, Kinkakuji Gold Pavilion, Ryoanji's Rock Garden, Yasaka Shrine, Higashi Hongwanji, and Sanjusangendo.

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The headquarters shrine of all Inari shrines in Japan, this grand shrine is famous for its numerous torii gates along a mountain trail. This is also Kyoto's most popular shrine on New Year's Day, when I visited on Jan. 1, 2010.

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Eikando is a Jodo-shu Buddhist temple famous for autumn foliage, especially red maples. One of Kyoto's most photogenic spots for fall leaves. Next to Nanzan temple, near Keage Station. From Kyoto Station, take the No. 5 bus, get off at Nanzen-ji Eikando-michi.

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Tofukuji is a Zen Buddhist temple famous for red maple leaves. Quite spectacular and photogenic landscapes. One of the five great Zen temples of Kyoto. 10-min. walk from Tofukuji Station (JR Nara Line).

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Although it does not have a castle tower, Nijo-jo Castle is Japan's best preserved and most magnificent castle palace. Built on the order of Tokugawa Ieyasu to serve as the Kyoto residence for the Tokugawa shoguns. The interior is full of paintings (unfortunately photography is not allowed inside). A National Treasure.

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Headquarters temple of the Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji-ha Buddhist sect. Part of a World Heritage Site and home to a few National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties.

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The residence of the emperor from the 14th century to 1869 when Emperor Meiji moved to Tokyo. For the 20th anniversary of Emperor Akihito's enthronement in 1989, they held a special open house during Nov. 1-10, 2009 when we got to see buildings and areas normally closed to the public. The palace consists of numerous notable buildings.

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Held every Jan. 3, Karuta Hajime is the year's first karuta card game. Karuta players from the Nihon Karuta-in Hon-in organization in Kyoto play on Yasaka Shrine's Noh stage for about an hour from 1 pm. They are dressed in colorful Heian-Period costumes. Also see my video at YouTube.

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Held annually on Jan. 4 at Shimogamo Shrine, Kemari Hajime is a ceremonial and Imperial court-era game of people in a circle kicking a soft, white ball called kemari. Originating in China, it goes back to the Heian Period (794-1185) in Japan. Also see my YouTube video here.

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Arashiyama is another major tourist spot in Kyoto with a river, bridge, boat rides, temples, cormorant fishing (July 1 to Sept. 23), and more.

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Opened in 2016, Kyoto Railway Museum is a modern makeover of the old Umekoji Steam Locomotive Museum that opened in 1972. New exhibition hall shows many modern and classic trains. The main highlight is still the Umekoji steam locomotive roundhouse, perhaps Japan's largest collection of steam locomotives on display. Short bus ride from Kyoto Station.

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Originally established in 1202, Kyoto Ebisu Shrine is one of Japan's three biggest Ebisu shrines. The biggest festival of the year is Toka Ebisu, a festival to pray for good business held on Jan. 9-11 (centering on the 10th). The shrine is dedicated to Ebisu, one of the Seven Gods of Good Fortune, representing business prosperity. These photos were taken on Jan. 10, 2009.

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Reconstruction of Fushimi Castle when it was still open to the public from 1964 to 2003. It was a museum about Toyotomi Hideyoshi who built the original Fushimi-Momoyama Castle. This was the main attraction of a small theme park called "Castle Lan."

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I organized a group photo exhibition at Kyoto International Community House in Kyoto, Japan during Nov. 16-20, 2011. Seven artists exhibited: Micah Gampel, Peter Macintosh, Motoyasu "Musashi" Matsutani, Peter Miller, Bruce Osborn, John Wells, and I, Philbert Ono. The exhibition theme was "Home Sweet Hometown" (Furukiyoki Furusato).

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Other sights in Kyoto city including the Manga Museum.

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Opened in 2012, Maizuru Brick Park is a complex of 12 large brick buildings near the Japanese navy base. They were built from 1901 until the 1920s to store munitions (arsenal) for the Imperial Japanese Navy. Eight of them are National Important Cultural Properties and a few of them have been renovated and opened to the public. Hours 9:00 am–5:00 pm, closed Dec. 29–Jan. 1. 15-min. walk from JR Higashi-Maizuru Station (JR Maizuru Line and Obama Line). Parking available.
Map: https://goo.gl/maps/ZuFd1eXrNds

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Shoeikan was originally the annex (別館) of the Shoeikan ryokan inn opened in 1904 (Meiji 37). The inn was built for navy VIPs like Admiral Heihachiro Togo who led the Japanese navy during the Russo-Japanese War.
The ryokan's annex building was left unused and decrepit for many years and was on the verge of being torn down until a citizens group got together to clean, renovate, and preserve the building. They finally decided to make it a Western-style restaurant serving navy cuisine. It just opened on Oct. 11, 2018.
Hours
Lunch: 11:30–14:30 Dinner: 17:30–21:30

About 1 km from JR Higashi Maizuru Station. Parking available.
Map: https://goo.gl/maps/sQd8ZdekJqA2

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Picturesque waterfront fishing neighborhood with boats moored right outside. Fishing village since the Edo Period. The homes used to have built-in boat garages like at Ine, but they were abolished and the boats are moored right in front instead. Located on the north end of Isazu River (伊佐津川). "Yoshihara" means reed fields, so this area used to have reed beds on marshy land. About 20-min. walk from JR Nishi-Maizuru Station (JR Maizuru Line). Map here

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Amanohashidate is northern Kyoto's main attraction and very famous as one of Japan's Scenic Trio (Nihon Sankei 日本三景). The other two in the scenic trio are Miyajima (vermillion torii and shrine on the ocean) in Hiroshima and Matsushima (pine tree islands) near Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture. It's about 3.6 km long, totally flat, and you can cross it on foot or by bicycle (rentals available) on a dirt road in the middle. The road is lined with thousands of Japanese pine trees and closed to vehicular traffic. Near Amanohashidate Station.

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Visitors to Amanohashidate can hardly miss Chionji Temple right next to the entrance of Amanohashidate at the southern end. Since you're there, might as well also see the temple especially when you see the large temple gate. Belonging to the Rinzai Zen Sect, the temple worships the Manjushri bodhisattva (Monju Bosatsu) for wisdom and academic abilities. Many students pray here. The elegant Tahoto Pagoda is an Important Cultural Property. The temple is not affiliated with Chion-in Temple in Kyoto city.
Map: https://goo.gl/maps/Anjk19rRLzT2
http://www.monjudo-chionji.jp/

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Byodo-in is one of Japan's most famous Buddhist temples. It's the one on the back of the ¥10 coin. It completed major renovations in 2012-14. Belongs jointly to the Tendai and Jodo-shu Sects. Near JR Uji Station on the JR Nara Line and Keihan Uji Station on the Keihan Dentetsu Uji Line. A full-size replica of the Phoenix Hall is also on Oahu, Hawaii.

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Manpukuji (萬福寺) is a large temple complex and headquarters of a Chinese Zen sect (Obaku-shu). It's one of the Big Three Zen sects in Japan (besides Soto and Rinzai). The founder was Chinese Zen master Yinyuan Longqi (Ingen) from Fujien Province in China who came to Japan via Nagasaki in 1654.

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In the 15th century, Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu and Yoshinaga loved Uji tea so much that they designated seven tea fields in Uji as the Seven Reknown Tea Fields (七名園). Today only Okunoyama Chaen (奥ノ山茶園) remains. This tea field was taken over by Horii Shichimeien now operated by 6th-generation owner Chotaro Horii. Only part of the original Okunoyama Chaen remains as a tea field. Horii also has a tea shop selling some of Japan's finest tea.

Tourists visiting Byodo-in temple can also experience and taste Uji tea at nearby Takumi no Yakata (匠の館).

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In 1738, Nagatani Soen basically invented sencha green tea by using a kneading process for young tea leaves. He used a hot drying plate called hoiro to knead the steamed tea buds by hand to dry them. The process is called aosei sencha seiho. It produced excellent color, aroma, and taste of sencha tea. He taught his technique to anybody who flocked to his home. It spread nationwide and his basic technique is still in wide use today. His birthplace house is a replica in Yuyadani, Ujitawara. Open only on Sat. and Sun.

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Wazuka (pop. 4,226 as of Feb. 2016) is a small town in southern Kyoto with about 301 tea farmers. Blessed with rolling hills and clear streams, Wazuka produces about 40 percent of Kyoto's Uji tea production. Wazuka is most suited for tea cultivation because there is a large temperature difference between night and day. Fog thereby forms over the tea plants to shade them from the strong sunlight. Tea plants also grow best in well-drained soil, hence the tea plants on sloping land. The highest quality tea is produced. One of Wazuka's most scenic tea fields is at an area called Ishitera. Steep hills covered with tea bushes.

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Chirimen Road/Kaido is a Tango chirimen manufacturing area in Kaya. Since it was a castle town (during the Sengoku Warring States Period), a few streets have sharp, narrow turns or corners to defend against any invading enemies. Some of the traditional homes were built in the 19th century or 1920s-30s. Part of the district escaped damage from the 1927 Tango earthquake.

On the Chirimen Road, we can enter the former Bito Family Merchant's House. The Bito family was a raw silk and chirimen wholesaler since the Edo Period. Very prominent and rich local family who also became active in local government and business during the Meiji Period.

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