Edo-Tokyo Museum Special Exhibition “In Praise of Great Edo”

Kokugikan Sumo Arena is in front of Edo-Tokyo Museum
Kokugikan Sumo Arena is in front of Edo-Tokyo Museum. Near JR Ryogoku Station and Ryogoku Station on the Oedo subway line.

The museum’s first Special Exhibition since its reopening after four years of renovations is titled, In Praise of Great Edo (大江戸礼賛). It opened on April 25 and runs until May 24, 2026.

This Special Exhibition is a condensed glimpse into Edo’s traditional and popular culture and entertainment as created or enjoyed by the samurai, the masses, artists, and scholars. Very impressive exhibition with all pieces from the museum’s collection. Edo is the former name of Tokyo.

The art objects were all made during the Edo Period (early 17th century to 1868), and some pieces are being exhibited for the first time. They include byobu folding screens, samurai armor, swords, woodblock prints, picture scrolls, calligraphy, letters, and clothing. Edo’s population was about 1 million. Basic English captions are provided.

This blog post shows a small sample of the items exhibited in the Special Exhibition.

Special Exhibition: In Praise of Great Edo
Special Exhibition: In Praise of Great Edo
  • Special Exhibition period: April 25 – May 24, 2026
  • Special Exhibition hours: 9:30 am – 5:30 pm (7:30 pm on Sat.) (enter by 30 min. before closing), closed Mondays (open on May 4), and closed on May 7.
  • Special Exhibition admission: ¥1,300 for adults, ¥650 for age 65 and older, ¥1,040 for college students, free for high school and younger.
  • Special Exhibition location: 1st floor
  • Website: https://www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/en/s-exhibition/raisan/
Special Exhibition room on 1st floor
Special Exhibition room occupies about one-fourth the area of the 1st floor.
Entrance to Special Exhibition
Entrance to Special Exhibition. (Admission charged.)

Special Exhibition In Praise of Great Edo is organized into the following sections:

Prelude: Musashino Plain with no mountains to hide the moon (序章: 武蔵野は月の入るべき山もなし)
Chapter 1: Development of the samurai capital (第1章: 将軍のお膝元 武士の都の形成)
Chapter 2: Edo’s popular culture (第2章: 江都繁華 町人文化の開花)
Chapter 3: Edo firefighters (第3章: 火事と喧嘩は江戸の華 武家火消と町火消)
Chapter 4: Cultural and academic influencers (第4章: 類を以て集まる 交遊と創作)
Epilogue: Great Edo – Unrivaled (終章: 花のお江戸に及ばんや)

Prelude: Musashino Plain with no mountains

Musashino Plain with no mountains
Prelude: Musashino Plain with no mountains to hide the moon (序章: 武蔵野は月の入るべき山もなし)

The Prelude section had a large folding screen with a painting of the Musashino Plain which was flat with no mountains. The glass had too many reflections, so I couldn’t get a good photo of the folding screen. Photo above shows the Prelude room where the press tour started with a talk by museum curators.

Musashino Plain with no mountains
Folding screens: Musashino Plain

Chapter 1: Development of the samurai capital (第1章: 将軍のお膝元 武士の都の形成)

Two folding screens depicting New Year's visit to Edo Castle
Two folding screens depicting New Year’s visit to Edo Castle, by Satake Eiko, 1898.

For New Year’s and other special occasions, samurai lords would visit Edo Castle in processions.

folding screen depicting New Year's visit to Edo Castle
Closeup of New Year’s visit to Edo Castle.
Prints of samurai daimyo residences in Edo.
Prints of samurai daimyo residences in Edo.

Robert H. Pruyn, the second U.S. ambassador to Japan (United States Minister Resident to Japan) in 1851 to 1865 after Townsend Harris, acquired 90 prints of daimyo residences in Edo and took them home to America. The prints were acquired by the museum.

Prints of samurai daimyo residences in Edo.
Prints of samurai daimyo residences in Edo. Left is Hosokawa residence (Kumamoto) and the right is Matsudaira residence (Fukui).
Bright green laced samurai armor. Made by Myochin Munechika
Bright green laced samurai armor. Made by Myochin Munechika from late Edo Period to early Meiji Period.
Katana swords made of Nanban steel by swordsmith Echizen Yasutsugu in early Edo Period.
Katana swords made of Nanban steel by swordsmith Echizen Yasutsugu in early Edo Period. First active in Sakata, Omi Province, he later moved to Echizen (Fukui) and to Edo where he worked for Shogun Ieyasu and Hidetada.
Closeup of katana tsuka handle with hollyhock crest and Yasutsugu's name.
Closeup of katana tsuka handle with hollyhock crest and Yasutsugu’s name.
Ornate horse saddle with a gunbai warrior fan design on gold nashiji (梨子地) base, 1673.
Ornate horse saddle with a gunbai warrior fan design on gold nashiji (梨子地) base, 1673. Good for the Year of the Horse.
Wedding kimono with ocean wave and flowery designs. Late Edo Period.
Wedding kimono with ocean wave and flowery designs. Late Edo Period.

When a woman married into a samurai family, splendid wedding gifts were given during the Edo Period.

Wedding gifts: Maki-e lacquerware with family crest, pine, bamboo, plum, crane, and turtle designs.
Wedding gifts: Maki-e lacquerware with family crest, pine, bamboo, plum, crane, and turtle designs.
picture scroll depicting Princess Kazunomiya (in the palanquin) traveling from Kyoto to Tokyo in 1861 to marry future shogun Tokugawa Iemochi. Dated 1862.
Part of a picture scroll depicting Princess Kazunomiya (in the palanquin) traveling from Kyoto to Tokyo in 1861 to marry future shogun Tokugawa Iemochi. Dated 1862.

Chapter 2: Edo’s popular culture (第2章: 江都繁華 町人文化の開花)

This section centers on Edo’s major forms of popular entertainment: Sumo, kabuki, and the Yoshiwara red light district.

Complemented by ukiyoe woodblock prints by famous artists Utamaro, Sharaku, and Hokusai.

Cherry blossoms at Kaneiji Temple in Ueno Park, Tokyo on a folding screen
Cherry blossoms at Kaneiji Temple in Ueno Park, Tokyo on a folding screen showing famous places in Tokyo. Early to mid-Edo Period.
Exhibition room for sumo, kabuki, and Yoshiwara.
Exhibition room for sumo, kabuki, and Yoshiwara.
Closeup of ukiyoe sumo print showing including the sumo ring with spectators at Ekoin Temple in Ryogoku, Tokyo. By Utagawa Kunisato, 1853.
Closeup of ukiyoe sumo print showing including the sumo ring with spectators at Ekoin Temple in Ryogoku, Tokyo. By Utagawa Kunisato, 1853.
Kabuki theater in Sakaicho, Edo, by Rekisentei Eiri, 1798.
Kabuki theater in Sakaicho, Edo, by Rekisentei Eiri, 1798.
Closeup of the second floor of a Yoshiwara brothel, print by Utagawa Kunisada, 1813.
Closeup of the second floor of a Yoshiwara brothel, print by Utagawa Kunisada, 1813.
Closeup of folding screen showing Yoshiwara fashions. By Hishikawa School artist, 1688-1704.
Closeup of folding screen showing Yoshiwara fashions. By Hishikawa School artist, 1688-1704.

Chapter 3: Edo firefighters (第3章: 火事と喧嘩は江戸の華 武家火消と町火消)

Long picture scroll depicting the Great Meiwa Fire in Edo in 1772.
Long picture scroll depicting the Great Meiwa Fire in Edo in 1772.

Edo was packed with homes made of wood and paper, making them vulnerable to fires which could spread easily. The Great Meireki Fire in 1657 was especially devastating in Edo.

Two different fire brigades were formed. The daimyo-bikeshi brigade protected the castle and daimyo residences. And the machi-bikeshi townspeople brigade fought fires everywhere else in the city. These two fire brigades often had disputes over taking credit for extinguishing fires.

The fire brigades didn’t use water since the water pressure was too low. They instead tore down buildings in advance to stop the fire from spreading.

Firefighting in Edo became a cultural icon in itself.

Closeup of a picture scroll depicting the Great Meiwa Fire in Edo in April 1772. By Hasegawa Settei, 1826
Closeup of a picture scroll depicting the Great Meiwa Fire in Edo in April 1772. By Hasegawa Settei, 1826

Due to its large and dense population, Edo was Japan’s most fire-prone city during the Edo Period. Hundreds of fires occurred during the 267 years, but three major fires stand out as the most destructive and widespread: The Great Fire of Meireki in March 1657, Great Fire of Meiwa in April 1772, and Great Fire of Bunka in April 1806. They are named after the respective historical era. Many daimyo residences and town homes were destroyed each time.

Edo Castle was not immune to fires either. The main castle tower was destroyed by the Great Meireki Fire in 1657 and was never rebuilt. Only the stone foundation still remains. Palace buildings were also consumed by fire multiple times.

The fires were caused by cooking fires, fire-burning lamps, or more often by arsonists. Arsonists were motivated by looting or taking revenge on their bosses, romantic partners, or business rivals. They even included some firefighters who started fires to show off their firefighting skills. Arsonists who were caught were severely punished, even by death.

Firefighter tools and embroidered uniforms.
Firefighter tools and embroidered uniforms.
Samurai woman firefighter's eboshi hood with a rooster design. Late Edo Period.
Samurai woman firefighter’s eboshi hood with a rooster design. Late Edo Period.

Chapter 4: Cultural and academic influencers (第4章: 類を以て集まる 交遊と創作)

Cultural and academic influencers
Hanging from the ceiling is a replica of the nine-meter long letter written by novelist Kyokutei Bakin.

This section focuses on four cultural and scholarly influencers active during the Edo Period: Ota Nanpo (大田南畝), a comical tanka poet in 18th century; Hiraga Gennai (平賀源内), a Dutch studies student and herbalist; Sakai Hoitsu (酒井抱一), a Japanese painter of the Rinpa school; and Kyokutei Bakin (曲亭馬琴), a bestselling novelist especially known for his epic novel Nansō Satomi Hakkenden (南総里見八犬伝) or Tale of Eight Dog Warriors.

Works by Sakai Hoitsu.
Works by Sakai Hoitsu.
Letter written by Hiraga Gennai
Letter written by Hiraga Gennai displayed for the first time.
Poetry books by Ota Nanpo.
Poetry books by Ota Nanpo.
Epic novel Nansō Satomi Hakkenden (南総里見八犬伝) by Kyokutei Bakin.
Epic novel Nansō Satomi Hakkenden (南総里見八犬伝) by Kyokutei Bakin.

Epilogue: O-Edo Unrivaled (終章: 花のお江戸に及ばんや)

Special Exhibition's last room.
Special Exhibition’s last room.

Special Exhibition’s last room has monitor screens showing closeups of picture scrolls, glass cases of small books, picture scroll of Kanda Myojin Shrine festival procession, and a few ukiyoe prints.

Edo Period books on display
Edo Period books on display.
Summer view of Ryogoku Bridge
Summer view of Ryogoku Bridge, by Hashimoto Sadahide, 1859.

Summer view of Ryogoku Bridge depicts Ryogoku Bridge over Sumida River during summer fireworks held in memory of those who died in famine and epidemics. Spectators pack the bridge and boats fill the river for a view of the fireworks. The riverside on the right is lined with theaters and tea shops where street performers entertained.

The print includes vertical strips of notes in red indicating place names, shop names, and fireworks name.

It took me 1.5 hour to whiz through the Special Exhibition during the press tour. But you can easily spend more time if you want to read/translate the captions.

The museum gift shop sells the Special Exhibition catalog. Item names are in English.

The Special Exhibition will change almost every other month. See the current and upcoming Special Exhibition schedule here.

Ippuku Cafe
Ippuku Cafe to take a break.

After the Special Exhibition, might as well also see the Permanent Exhibition if you have two or three hours to spare. Read about it here.

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Philbert Ono

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